One of the most iconic pieces in the Chanel handbag collection is the Matelassé series.
Today, this signature design extends beyond bags, evolving into accessories and watches. With so many variations in size, material, and era - from vintage to modern, how do you choose the right one?
In this guide, KOMEHYO experts break down everything you need to know about the Chanel Matelassé Chain Shoulder Bag—from its history to its most popular size and material variations
What is the Chanel Matelassé Series?
The word Matelassé is French for 'quilted' or 'padded.' This signature Chanel diamond-shaped stitching creates a raised effect on the leather, resulting in the voluminous, quilted surface that defines the Matelassé look.
The Timeless Appeal: 2.55 vs. The Classic Flap
The design of the Matelassé was largely perfected in 1955.
The original, known as the 2.55, was named after its birth date (February 1955).
In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld updated the 2.55 to create what we now call the Classic Matelassé (Classic Flap). Key differences include:
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The Lock: The 2.55 features a simple rectangular "Mademoiselle" lock (a minimalist, rectangular turn-lock), while the Matelassé features the iconic CC Turn-Lock (the iconic interlocking double-C logo).
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The Chain: The 2.55 uses an all-metal chain; the Matelassé features leather interwoven through the chain.
As Coco Chanel famously said, "Fashion fades, only style remains the same." The Matelassé is the embodiment of "style."
Shop Chanel Matelassé
Anatomy of a Chanel Matelassé
What makes a "True" Matelassé? Look for these five hallmarks:
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Diamond Quilting: The iconic stitched pattern.
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Leather-Interwoven Chain: A signature blend of metal and leathercraft.
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CC Turn-Lock: The recognizable gold or silver-tone hardware.
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Double Flap: Most classic models feature an internal second flap for added security and structure.
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Sliding Chain Strap: Allows the bag to be worn as a long shoulder bag or doubled up for a shorter drop.
The Value of the Double Flap
Compared to a "Single Flap" model (which only has the outer lid), the Double Flap is significantly more popular and holds a higher resale value. Even if two Chanel bags look identical from the outside, the presence of this internal flap can greatly increase the market price.
Size Guide: Finding Your Perfect Fit
Chanel uses centimeter measurements to categorize its bags. Here are the most popular sizes available at KOMEHYO:
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Matelassé 17 (Square Mini): 17cm (6.69") wide. Surprisingly fits a mini wallet and smartphone.
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Matelassé 20 (Rectangular Mini): 20cm (7.87") wide. The trending "mini bag" size with just enough room for essentials.
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Matelassé 23 (Small): 23cm (9.06") wide. A sophisticated size that fits a long wallet.
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Matelassé 25 (Medium): 25cm (9.84") wide. The gold standard. Perfect for transitions from day to night.
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Matelassé 30 & 33 (Large & Maxi): 30cm (11.81") & 33cm (12.99") wide. These offer maximum storage and a bold fashion statement.
Choosing by Material: Lambskin vs. Caviar
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Lambskin (Sheepskin): Prized for its buttery soft texture and high-sheen finish. It is the ultimate luxury choice but requires careful handling.
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Caviar Skin (Grained Calfskin): Features a pebble-like texture. It is much more resistant to scratches and maintains its structure better over time, making it highly sought after in the resale market.
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Tweed & Canvas: Seasonal options that offer a more casual, fashion-forward look.
- Exotic Leathers (Alligator & Crocodile): Known for their perfectly symmetrical scales, these are the rarest Matelassé pieces. Since Chanel discontinued exotic skins in 2018, these bags have become highly collectible "one-of-a-kind" items that are increasingly difficult to find on the resale market.
Why Buy Chanel from KOMEHYO USA?
At KOMEHYO, our experts authenticate every piece using decades of data and rigorous inspection standards. Whether you are looking for a pristine modern Classic Flap or a rare 90s Vintage Matelassé, we help you find the "style" that lasts forever.
Browse Chanel Matelassé Collection
Credit: KOMEHYO Japan
Translation / Edit / Localization: KOMEHYO USA
